Ok we’re now getting into the interesting part of the build, lots done in a very short time and you will think you are working like navvies and getting lots done, it will slow down soon when the real detail work begins.
So all your foam is in place, the bow section formed nicely with lots of heat ( don’t get the foam too hot as it will damage the structure of the foam ) and the panels look fair and bent in a compound arc. We by accident managed to get a box of non cutting screws and where we screwed them through the batten, they lifted the foam slightly off the batten in places. A right pain as we had to go back and re fasten quite a number of panels. So lesson learnt, check your purchases for what you actually bought.
We chose not to use vacuum to pull the cloth down, nor infusion. Why, well this boat has always been designed so that the average home builder can build a lightweight boat without needing too many tools and just using basic skills. Relatively flat and long curves everywhere and 10mm foam will allow for some fairing if needed before the outer layers go on. No it won’t be optimally light, but using a technique I have learnt along the way, you won’t be to far off on weights. However should you wish then the experienced builder may well go the infusion route.
The carbon cloth weight is relatively light but is available at reasonable rates and is right on the limits for damage from abrasion and docking knocks. On that basis we chose to put an outer layer of glass on the panels. It has a benefit of being able to soak up any excess resin in the carbon as well has compounding the layers if you work the dry cloth into the carbon layer with a squeegee. You can also visually see if the right amount of resin is in the layers. It works well and for the inexperienced, the visual aspect is a great way to learn about what amounts of resin you need in carbon cloth. The downside is weight but if the boatt is more durable and will survive the ravishes of docking and trailer damage, as will happen, then I can live with the 10 kilos or so of extra weight.
You can lay the first 45/45 carbon at the bow as a full width, however we have found that beyond that it is easier to make an overlapping join in the middle of the vertical strake ( just below the cabin side ) as this realigns the cloth to enable a better 45 / 45 layup. You can sometime work the cloth to create a bend, but here the length on either side of the Strake line is just too long and the cloth wants to hold its shape.
Two of you can do the layup including the 300 Uni and put on “ Tear Strip” on anywhere which needs flattening ( with 4 layers the Strake section looks a bit rough, tear strip will flatten it nicely ) or will need a bond at the bulkheads, in about 7 hours.